Glamping with grizzlies: What it’s like to sleep next to wild bears

Encircled by the hulking shadows of mountains, as fading stars surrender to the rising sun, our boat drifts silently in Quesnel Lake, as if slowly orbiting the bottom of a well. Plummeting 2,625ft at its lowest point, this is the deepest fjord lake on earth, seeping into some of Canada’s wildest terrain.

Sprawling ice fields feed tumbling glaciers, serrated peaks slope into swathes of temperate rainforest, and barely any tarmac has been laid in this intermontane plateau that makes up British Columbia’s Central Cariboo.

Plunged in darkness, it’s an overwhelming environment, but daylight softens the edges and extends an inviting hand. By 5.30am, amorphous forests have become clusters of innocuous…

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